We left a little later today making sure we ate a little something before starting out. Our first stop was in Briallos. We met a couple from Tennessee and had a nice conversation. 

Next stop another 6 kms and we had a nice lunch in a very busy but effective cafe A Pousado in San Amaro. 

Got some interesting questions about our well being or if we forgot something as well as the you’re going the wrong way. 

We had two encounters with very different pilgrims. One woman asked us if we were returning to which we explained that we started in SdC and are walking to Porto where we will meet friends and then walk back. She was having a rough day and was ready to be done but she had 10 more kms. And she was lonely on the road. We talked for about 10 minutes and she was happy for the company. 

The other woman, Emily asked us if we were staying in caldas de reis. She was a bit disappointed in the way saying it was much more commercial than she expected. While chatting we shared our story of meeting and she got very emotional and teared up. I told her my name was Debbie and she teared up again saying that was her mom’s name and that she had passed away five years ago. We spent about 15 minutes sharing and then exchanged instagram, hugged and went our separate ways. 

After checking in we showered and headed out to walk around Caldas de Reis and find something to eat. We found a little place called nata and pizza. The natas are delicious the pizza was so so. But it hit the spot. 

 

Before going to bed last night we had a nice long chat with Marius from Romania and Anya from Germany and Hannah from Singapore came and joined us. Marius asked us questions which allowed us to share our story. There was such a nice connection. 

This morning at breakfast we talked again with the two women from Barcelona and Marius. Even though we haven’t been walking the same way with them we all really connected. 

After 6 kms we stopped for breakfast and we both had a strange experience of feeling lightheaded and dizzy. We had already talked about taking a cab since we were doing 28 kms. And the dizziness probably sealed the deal. 

On our way we came across an older couple walking with a young woman with Down syndrome…she looked me in the eye and said Buen Camino!! I replied with the same. And then melted into tears. 

We got our stamp in the cathedral in Padron and continued on to Buen Camino cafe. That’s where our taxi picked us up and dropped us off 6 kms before Caldas de Reis. Before the taxi picked us up we met a family. The daughter had just found a four leaf clover and gave it to me. That was so sweet. The last 5,8 kms were enjoyed because there was some forest walking. 

We ate an early dinner, a little shopping and a visit to the church. Nice day. Nice way. Taking care of ourselves along the way. 

18 April we drove to Lavacolla airport where we will leave our car while we walk to Porto and then back to SdC with Kim and Ann. And of course had a nice meal at L’Incontro.

19 April SdC to Escravitude

We left SdC just as the sun was coming up. 

It’s funny that we decided to walk backwards again. It’s fun but I guarantee you say A LOT more buen Camino’s going this way. 

We noticed that many pilgrims seemed down, tired, grumpy as they passed us. It seemed odd to us because they are so close to SdC. But we haven’t walked their journey. 

We had a few fun conversations with people who told us we were going in the wrong direction to which Noël says, “that depends on where you are going!”

Today was our shortest walking day. Only 10 kms. Everyone was a bit tired today from yesterday’s ups and downs. Our bus wasn’t until 15:20 so we weren’t in a hurry. 

We needed to pick up David’s and Heleen’s backpacks in Logrono before heading to the bus station. 

We ate lunch at the station and had time for some great people watching. 

Two bus rides later we arrived in Leon. It was after 7 so not much to do except a few errands and getting some dinner. We stopped by the cathedral which of course was closed this late. And then popped into our favorite pizza place in Leon El Topo for a takeaway pizza. 

Showers and bed are next on the agenda. 

Lesson learned? 

Stay positive 

Work hard

Make it happen!!

We stayed in a nice apartment last night and watched a silly movie. Afterwards we wound down and went to bed. 

Good morning!!! I think we were all feeling excited about the day only 18-19 kms. The hardest and longest days were behind us. Let’s go!!!

We had coffee before leaving and started off happy and excited though tired, after all we had walked nearly 70 kms in three days. The moon and sunrise were spectacular. 

After 8 kms we stopped for breakfast in Toros del Rio. Such a nice stop. And we only had 11 kms+ to go. 

This part of the trail is called the knee-wrecker. And while I think our knees were fine it wrecked us in other ways. 

Feet were tired. Blisters for some. Weariness. 

And yet we still found time to laugh. 

And once in Viana we enjoyed a nice lunch and lots more laughs and a few tears before the much needed showers and down time. 

And once in Viana we enjoyed a nice lunch and lots more laughs and a few tears before the much needed showers and down time. 

This has been a trip of a lifetime!!! I have walked with my daughter which was extraordinarily special. For Noël this is special because he has always wanted family to come with him. So for us this is meaningful to have David and Heleen join us. 

Today’s lesson: take the trip, spend time together, let the laughter and tears flow equally!! Life is short!!!!

We started at 7 again today. We love to walk slowly through the dawning of a new day. For now the moon has been bright above us before the sunrise. 

Breakfast found us At Azqueta and our friend Rene’s cafe. He greeted us warmly. We contacted them yesterday saying google had them temporarily closed. They were grateful for the tip. We had a nice coffee and sandwich!! Perfect stop.

Out of  Azqueta there is a descent and then a steep climb into Villamayor de Monjardin. We stopped there also for a quick break.

Next stop the Oasis Food truck. In between Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos is a lovely food truck. We always try to stop here. Today was a great experience!!!

There is a nice little stop a few kms from Los Arcos. While sitting there we talked with a young g woman from china. We didn’t get her name but she gave us all a gift of a camino keychain. 

As we were walking to Los Arcos Noël and I decided to give her one of the small wooden shells we bought in Sant cirque la popie. She was very grateful. 

A big lunch in Los Arcos before checking in, check in, groceries and then relaxing. 

Lesson learned today: we are more resilient than we realize. 

We were able to have coffee and a bite to eat this morning before embarking on our journey today. Everyone was a bit tired but ready to go for the next day. 

Adapt. Adjust. Accept. That’s one of our mottos for camino and life. And well it fit well for this one too. Both of us were suffering from sore feet yes so we opted to send one pack ahead, carry one and a smaller backpack in order to distribute the weight. It wasn’t what we planned but we listened to our own advice. 

We had a nice day though again a bit warm again. And lots of ups and downs. But we made it and have rested, eaten, and are getting ready for another day tomorrow!!

I encourage you to love your life with these words: adapt, adjust, accept. 

Our day starts at 7 walking from Pamplona to Puente La Reina. We hope to find coffee for David before leaving Pamplona. Okay for the rest of us too.  

Our first stop was at Cizur Menor and alas there was no coffee or any cafe open. So we sat and rested and had a breakfast bar. And on we went to Zariquiequi. 

On the way out of Cizur Menor a gentleman from Australia wished us a Buen Camino and a Happy Easter. 

And then said, “although it doesn’t feel much like Easter.” To which I replied, “well the sun is shining, it’s a beautiful day, there are opportunities all around and hope springs eternal!” He laughed and said, “you are right. It does feel like Easter!”

Thankfully the church, the tienda and the little cafe were open. After snacks, drinks, stamps, and rest it was time to tackle Alto del Perdon. 

We made it to the top and it wasn’t as windy as it usually is. The vistas were absolutely beautiful. We could see the rapeseed blooming yellow and look another direction and see snow on the mountains. 

The descent down from Alto del Perdon is never easy even with the work they have done. For 1.2 kms it’s a 34% descent. Tough on knees and feet. For me today it was the feet. And yet always nice to look back at from where you have come.

Our next stop was in Uterga where we had lunch. It was a much needed rest break. We met a lovely lady named Ann from Australia. 

We made it to Puente La Reina. Tired, hot and ready to relax. 

And the words I said to the gentleman still ring true for me, even though my feet hurt and I am very tired…it was a beautiful day, full of opportunities and hope springs eternal!!

4 April-David and Heleen are on their way to Toulouse. After picking them up we will head to Pamplona. Well, we had to wait because there was some sort of delay with luggage. But finally were greeted with their smiling faces and warm hugs. 

Four and a half hours driving to Pamplona. Good conversations and laughter most of the way. The stress of the day had melted away quickly!!

Driving into the Pyrenees is always an awe-some experience!!!

We navigated little obstacles with ease, patience, and peace. 

Key lesson: have fun and stay calm!!!